Inside: Sahara

Simple and traditional Middle Eastern fare

By Christopher Flood

Special to Metromix
October 23, 2009

 

Inside: Sahara
The Sahara
Address:
12501 Lorain Ave., Cleveland, OH, 44111
Phone:
216-671-9300
Overall User Rating:
0 (0 ratings)
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Hours:
Noon to 10 p.m. Monday through Saturday; 5-10 p.m. Sunday

When searching for a destination to enjoy international cuisine, options may seem so similar that without doing some research, poor choices may hastily be made. The path between enlightenment and mediocrity can blur easily. For the average diner, the differences between traditional flavors and techniques and Americanized imposters may even go unnoticed until that one breakthrough meal is stumbled upon … or in this case finally sought out. Sahara Restaurant is a simple, traditional and welcomed experience for a palate definitely overexposed and numb to Americanized “fast-food” versions of Middle Eastern favorites.

Food: For two years, a friend routinely scheduled Saturday nights around catching a shawarma cart at 2:30 a.m.—a cart that possibly was operated by Italians. The flavors that have become known to define Middle Eastern fare definitely need realignment. How about a falafel and … mozzarella sticks? Not this time. Sahara’s menu contains only authentic (mainly Lebanese) fare. No Middle Eastern-style burgers or deep-fried hummus bites will be found here.

The starter plate ($6.99) gives a sampling of three classics: taboli, baba ganouj and hummus served with a giant stack of fresh delicate pita. The taboli had a crisp and clean herb taste with hints of citrus and tomato cut through. It wasn’t overly dressed and was a pleasant palate cleanser. The baba ganouj became a quick favorite (especially for someone who hates eggplant) and the hummus was basically gone by the time anyone could even inquire as to how it was. Sahara’s version had a loose texture and was drizzled with olive oil giving it a lighter consistency than most. The flavors were also well balanced with a shot of sesame upfront and a hint of garlic to finish—tasty and not overpowering. 

Entrées include various kabobs, lamb chops, rotisserie chicken, skewers and many combinations of just about everything. Each item has a choice of soup or salad and is served with rice or hummus. Portion sizes are very respectable and moderately priced between $10 and $12. Vegetarian options are available and feature a personal favorite Mujadara ($7.95), a mixture of lentils and brown rice served with Arabic salad (cucumbers, tomatoes, onions, lettuce and mint). The beef shawerma ($4.95) leads the list of wraps and is as traditional as they come. The meat was warm, tender and juicy and not over-seasoned like the 2:30 a.m. cart. Sahara's Middle Eastern food is done right.

Libations: Sadly, Sahara doesn’t have a liquor license.

Atmosphere: The various rooms are clean and organized. Not highly decorated, but the murals on the walls are bright and offer picturesque interpretations of the Middle East. Each patron pre-bused their own tables as they ate, which was interesting to observe. Dishes were stacked neatly to be picked up by the staff, who were pleasant and very attentive. One television was tuned to a soccer match while traditional music played through the speakers with, surprisingly, a few interludes of American indie rock. The clientele ranges from families out for a meal together to public service workers in for a quick bite. The take-out service was bustling even after peak hours.

Insider tip: Various specials are offered daily, but Friday presents the most original and best value when whole fried fish hits the menu. The type varies by week, but the size is always humungous. The price is usually about $12 depending on the side dishes offered and style of catch.

Bottom line: Sahara Restaurant can definitely re-calibrate the taste buds that have succumbed to America’s take on Middle Eastern cuisine. But we know those late night stands will be out there tempting hungry fast food thrill seekers to continue to blur the lines of tradition. And though it is permissible to cheat in the early hours of a Sunday, don’t make a habit of allowing the flavors of the Middle East to be served with mozzarella sticks.

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