Inside: Niko's Greek Grille

Niko's Greek Grille is an odd little bird. Located on Detroit Avenue just to the west of the Gordon Square Arts District, Niko's is a family-run fast-food joint/catering service with a menu that's an inch deep and a mile wide. In other words, it offers a little bit of everything but doesn’t offer any one thing particularly well.

The concept was hatched in May 2010, when life-long restaurateur Niko, a native of Chios Greece and current resident of Parma, decided to bring high-quality and low-priced Greek-style dining to Northeast Ohio. The Detroit Avenue location opened this past December, marking the first step in what the owner hopes will be a number of establishments throughout the city.

But does the product meet the aim? Not quite. While it's certainly low in price, neither the cuisine nor the confines could ever be described as top-rate. The concept itself seems rather flawed. We're wary of any menu that lists gyros and chicken souvlaki next to mac and cheese bites or jalapeño poppers. And there's nothing that instills a warm sense of welcome like watching yourself on one of four prominently-placed security camera feeds if you choose to dine in. (Sarcasm implied.)

If you're looking for a quick-and-easy alternative to the same old drive-through chains, then sure, Niko's might do just the trick. But if you want a truly authentic Greek dining experience, then you're better off choosing from one of many fine options in the Cleveland area.

Food: If Niko's has one thing going for it, it's variety. You don't have to like Greek fare to find something on this menu. The most popular dish, not surprisingly, is the traditional gyro ($4.99), which combines the same seasoned strips of lamb and beef with fresh-cut onions, tomatoes and tzatziki sauce atop a warm, soft pita. You can also get it smothered with cheese ($5.65), made with chicken ($4.99) or with peppers and cheese, or Philly-style ($5.65). The platter dishes are a bit more substantial, including the likes of BBQ beef brisket ($8.95), fish and shrimp ($10.99), or a combination of pork and chicken souvlaki over rice ($8.99). The latter options are also available  as stand-alone pita sandwiches for $4.75.

Niko's also features chicken wings ($3.59 for six), chicken tenders ($4.99), and a number of sandwiches (e.g. burgers, grilled chicken) and subs (e.g. steak and cheese philly, meatball). You can also order from a, shall we say, eclectic list of sides, such as onion rings ($2.95), chili cheese fries ($4.50), mac and cheese bites ($3.95) and cole slow ($1.50).

Libations: Niko's doesn't serve any liquor or beer—not that you would expect to find any at this fast food-type joint. What the place does offer is a typical collection of fountain soda and fresh brewed tea. If you need a jolt of caffeine mid-afternoon, you can also order a cup of coffee, flavored hot tea or—weather permitting—an iced coffee, frappuccino or cappuccino.

Décor: If you've ever walked into a fast-food joint, you'll know exactly what to expect from Niko's. The interior features a small dining room with a few tables and chairs, a walk-up counter for ordering, and an open kitchen area in the rear. The full menu glows upon a lit-up display above the counter area so you can ponder your order as you're standing in line. Or you can skip the dining experience altogether and simply cruise through Niko's drive through.

Service: While Niko's may lack the corporate polish of other fast-food institutions, there's something to be said for the inherent charm in this family-run business. Walk in on any given day, and you'll likely find Niko himself running the kitchen or manning the front register. The enthusiastic restaurateur is always willing to answer questions about menu options, the seasoning in his lamb/beef gyro mix or the quality of his homemade baklava. If he's not there, you'll likely encounter his wife, son, daughter-in-law, or a handful of close friends who run the shop. While you might not feel like family by the time you walk out the door, you'll certainly appreciate the hard work and close ties required to raise this grassroots enterprise.

Insider tip: Need a batch of gyros or baklava in bulk? Niko's offers full-service catering to anywhere in the greater Cleveland area. As long as you give him a few days advance notice, the man himself can whip up any order of any size.

Bottom line: Niko's is a nice alternative to the standard fast-food fare to which you've grown accustom, but don’t expect top-notch, authentic Greek dining at this budget-conscious establishment; there's reason this grub is so inexpensive.