Inside: Fratello's

Metromix restaurant reviews

We take the guesswork out of food

The best Italian restaurants are often the least pretentious. Sure, there’s something to be said for five-star service in a professionally designed décor, but when it comes down to it, most people are coming for the food—not the ambiance.

The owners of Fratello’s in Avon Lake understand this concept, serving delicious Italian cuisine in a setting that’s classic and clean but ultimately casual. Since opening in 1992, the bistro has been owned and operated by brothers Craig and Ron Heldorfer. Chef Craig oversees the kitchen, which dishes out authentic, homemade fare, while Ron maintains a wine cellar with nearly 200 offerings. The tag-team effort is one that would satisfy the most fickle of gastronomists, let alone the hoards of casual diners who flock to the site come dinnertime.

Food: Fratello’s may not feature the variety of such carbon copy, mega-Italian chains like Olive Garden or Buca di Beppo, but it still offers plenty of top-notch dishes that preserve the fresh taste of the old country. Antipasto appetizers include the can’t-miss Italian wedding soup, succulent calamari fritti and more adventurous escargot.

The rest of the menu includes main entrées divided into sections for pollo (chicken), vitello (veal), pesce (seafood) and pasta. Each of these is served with warm, fresh-baked bread with soft garlic butter (worthy of a meal in itself) and a big bowl of either pasta marinara or seasonal vegetables. While you can’t go wrong with any option, this author recommends the chicken parmigiana. Imagine two huge, moist chicken breasts smothered in sweet marinara sauce, topped with fresh mozzarella and then baked to gooey, bubbly perfection.

Libations: For a relatively small, casual bistro, Fratello’s boasts a very impressive collection behind the bar. From top-shelf liquor to microbrews on draft, this place has almost got it all—and you might not even notice. The main attraction here is the wine list, which overshadows other libations in all its perfectly conceived, nuanced glory. Guests can dabble in collection, which is nearly 200 wines strong, by ordering a glass of one of several featured red or white wines. But to truly indulge in everything Fratello’s has to offer, you might have to go for broke and buy a bottle of some of the more obscure offerings. Doing so can cost anywhere from $20 to $200, so it’s a good idea to ask for owner Ron Heldorfer’s recommendations to get the most bang for your buck.

Décor: Like we mentioned before, Fratello’s isn’t going to win any awards for the most upscale décor in town, but that’s not to say the bistro doesn’t boast a perfectly pleasant, comfortable ambiance. The restaurant is divided into two sections. Closest to the front entry is the bar for those who prefer a less formal dining experience. Occupying most of the floor space immediately to the left is the formal dining room. This rectangular space features 20 or so white-clothed dining tables warmed by glowing tea light candles. The walls feature a somewhat cheesy pastel color palatte dotted with pictures that owner Ron took while in Italy.

Crowd: Given its location smack dab in the middle of residential Avon Lake, Fratello’s plays host to a familiar cast of friendly locals. It seems that every other person who walks through the door knows the hostess, waiters and bartender by name, and they proceed to catch up on family news and other personal items as such. This gives Fratello’s a very comfortable, familial atmosphere that even first-timers can appreciate.

Insider’s tip: If you’re craving some great Italian food and feeling extra charitable at the same time, visit Fratello’s to take part in the restaurant’s 10-percent Tuesdays. Every Tuesday in 2009, the restaurant donates 10 percent of its dine-in and food sales to a different local charity. And if you’re bringing a party of five or more, feel free to call ahead for reservations.

Bottom line: What Fratello’s lacks in a pretentious vibe it more than makes up for with great Italian food and a comfortable, casual setting. If you’re in the area and have the appetite, this is one Italian bistro you don’t want to pass up.

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