Inside: AMP 150

While at first glance, you’d likely pass on dining at this restaurant for something more proven and in a less commercial setting, but AMP 150 all but demands you shouldn’t judge a book by its cover—or in this instance, its location.

Let’s just get this out of the way now—AMP 150 is located inside the newly-remodeled airport Marriot. Covering chains, let alone encouraging people to patronize one isn’t something we’re accustomed to. But this is the exception to the rule, and chef Ellis Cooley’s commitment to utilizing local farmers and purveyors has us convinced that this is a viable dining option worthy of a visit.

Food: “We know where we are located,” explains chef Cooley. “We have to serve great local food at reasonable prices or else Clevelanders won’t come. We want to be known as a great dining spot to locals, but also something different for travelers, something other than a turkey club.”

AMP 150, which stands for America’s Modern Palate (and the 150 because of its location), serves a lot of small bites to mid-sized portions and is a garden-focused menu as the chef likes to call it. Mostly because he is making a concerted effort to support the community, from Kamm’s Corners Farmer’s Market to Killbuck Valley Mushrooms, Lake Erie Creamery as well as a quarter-acre garden onsite he’s in the process of planting, a courtyard in the hotel with a wide variety of herbs plus a plot in the West Park Community Garden. The chef is also steadfast in using only grass-fed beef, with the exception of the double bacon Angus burger.

The menu is intentionally priced so that people can sample a variety of dishes (nothing is more than $19, with most dishes priced between $6-$14). Though located in a Marriott, the chef has total autonomy when it comes to the menu. Cooley is constantly experimenting and always changing the menu, specifically the small bites. 

On our visit, the chef led us through a near four-hour tasting of a good portion of the menu. Some of the dishes we sampled included the chicken liver pate on grilled bread ($6), black mussels with ginger and lemongrass in a spicy broth ($8), velvet mushroom soup with chive cream ($5), spring lamb chili with fava beans, harissa and yogurt ($6), seared scallops with pea and coconut purée and pickled ramps ($10), rabbit spaetzle with peas, speck ham and tarragon ($8), shrimp and grits ($7) and braised lamb’s neck with artichoke faro cooked in the style of risotto topped with chili spiced grapes.

Someone clearly forgot to tell the chef he works in a Marriot because this is anything but a corporate chef and these are not your ho-hum standard entrées. Fresh, inventive, wonderfully satisfying and an impressive commitment to supporting local—AMP 150 proves to be a mighty competitor in the Cleveland dining scene.

While there were dishes we weren’t overly impressed with, like the chicken paprikash and seared scallops, the majority of our tour-de-Cooley was quite impressive, with some dishes, specifically the lamb neck, rabbit spaetzle, mushroom soup and spring lamb chili, teetering on near perfection.  

Desserts are solid, but clearly it’s the main menu that’s the star attraction (though all ice cream is from Jeni’s Ice Creams out of Columbus). We recommend the lemon grass crème brulee and milk chocolate panna cotta with malted hazelnut milkshake.

Libations: Beer aficionados rejoice—AMP 150 features an impressive offering of craft beers from around the world with numerous local selections, making the beer menu alone worth a visit. Beers range from Pittsburgh’s famous Iron City to Viking Blood Mead out of Denmark (with a 19-percent alcohol content that sells for $40). Wine snobs are not neglected, with several pours, half bottles and bottles available, all nicely priced.

Décor: While the food may have you forgetting where you are, the décor quickly brings you back to reality. The restaurant is located in the lobby of the hotel—literally. Though it’s nice and clean, there’s no hiding the fact that you’re in a Marriot and depending on where you sit (we recommend requesting one of the high-back booths that offers some privacy), you feel as if you’re part of the lobby’s make-up, which can make for an odd dining experience.

Service: The chef’s enthusiasm is clearly contagious because the staff was noticeably excited about the changes taking shape. Servers aren’t just knowledgeable on the menu, but can happily discuss where the ingredients come from, beyond rambling off a name or two.

Insider tip: Look for wine and beer dinners to start happening on a regular basis.

Bottom line: Don’t make the mistake we almost did and pass on this restaurant because of its location. While the décor and overall setting may not be ideal, the food is—and then some. This is one talented young chef looking to make a name for himself while doing his part to support the community. And therefore, deserves your support in return.