First look: Barroco Grill

Colombian street food finds a home in Lakewood

By Emily Hanna

Special to Metromix
June 29, 2011

 

First look: Barroco Grill
Barroco Grill
Address:
12906 Madison Ave., Lakewood, OH, 44107
Phone:
216-221-8127
Overall User Rating:
0 (0 ratings)
Be the first to review
Hours:
11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday; 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Sunday
Official Web Site:
http://www.barrocogrill.com

Cleveland's quick-service dining scene is getting inventive, thanks to the likes of Dim and Den Sum (and food trucks et. al), Palookaville Chili and one of the area's latest, Barroco Grill. No longer are we relegated to either mass-produced drive-thru fare or fresh-from-the-warming-light pizza when looking for a quick bite to eat; today we can chow down on practically any type of food we crave in about 15 minutes or less.

At Barroco Grill, a new addition to Lakewood's Birdtown District, diners can feast on Columbian cuisine, a style pretty much unheard of in the area. Not only is the country of origin different than what we’re accustomed to—in a good way—but the menu is inventive, the service is delightful and the space is truly fun.

Food: Barroco Grill’s signature dish is the arepa ($5), a quarter-inch-thick fluffy corn tortilla stuffed with meat (chicken, steak or pork) cheese, mushrooms, onions, corn and peppers and served with five housemade sauces. The sauces—in flavors such as ranchero, spicy peanut, chimichurri and more—are a must-try on the arepas, adding a kick or a sweet spot to each bite, depending on your tastes. Additionally, you can feast on a variety of dishes, including Columbian-ized hamburgers ($6) and hot dogs ($4), but the real treat is the side dish of cheesy corn with arepa fries ($5). The fries are the same fluffy corn mix as the arepa shell but in deep-fried, dipping stick form. They're delectable in their own right, but it's the cheesy corn that steals the show. A melted mixture of cheese, corn, chicken, bacon and deliciousness, it's a perfect side to any item on the menu. But be sure to share it. You may not want to, but your waistline and your cholesterol levels require it.

Libations: Drinks are pretty standard here, with a few Pepsi products on fountain plus pink lemonade. Or, get a cup of the 100 percent Columbian coffee ($1.25).

Décor: Tucked inside what looks like a tiny house, Barroco Grill's exterior doesn’t remotely let on to its quirky interior. A plain, tan building with a small black and white sign quietly greets guests, and the bright, funky interior shouts a welcome to all. Three walls are covered in loads of local artwork, all for sale, while the fourth wall is the open kitchen, countertop with bar stools and cash register to place and pay for your order. It's small with just about six tables with chairs, giving the space a cozy yet contemporary feel.

Service: One of the highlights of dining at Barroco Grill is the service. The entire staff is not only extremely pleasant but also truly helpful. They understand that not everyone is familiar with Columbian-style food, so they're quick to offer suggestions and tell you what the latest best-selling item is (generally, the arepas). And though you order and pay at the counter, when business is slow, they’re happy to come out to the table and take your order. Plus, it's quick, with food usually on the table about 10 minutes after ordering.

Insider tip: If it's your first time checking out the place, don’t be afraid to walk up to the counter and tell the employees so. They’ll make suggestions for you depending on your likes and dislikes, plus that's where you need to order and pay, so you'll be all set.

Bottom line: Although restaurants seem to open regularly in the region, it seems rare that a truly new concept comes to town. But at Barroco Grill, you'll get a style of food you’ve likely never tried before that won't disappoint. Plus, it's absurdly cheap and extremely fast—there isn't a better alternative to traditional fast food around.

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