First look: Bar Symon

To say that chef Michael Symon has left his mark on the Northeast Ohio culinary circuit is an understatement. The food impresario owns and operates two of the city’s most venerable gastronomic institutions in the acclaimed Lola and its more casual sister, Lolita. Add to that countless appearances on Food Network, various food magazines and lists of the best chefs in the country, and there seems little more the humble Cleveland native can stake his kitchens tongs on.

But then, Symon's never been one to take too little on his plate. His newest offering? Bar Symon, an American bar and brasserie. The restaurant’s relatively far-out location in Avon Lake is fitting, given its marked departure from the chef’s comfort zone.

Bar Symon is what happens when you mix Buffalo Wild Wings with the best steak house in the city. It’s the place where the snobbish gourmand and white-collar twenty-something can comfortably rub elbows during happy hour. The food is still top notch, but the bountiful beer selection and low price point make it Symon’s most accessible outing to date—one that’s sure to receive all the praise and accolades the chef’s grown accustomed to.

Food: Bar Symon does not serve that deep-fried mush you've grown accustomed to at the average neighborhood watering hole. Michael Symon wouldn’t do that to your taste buds. Instead, he’s cultivated an exquisite menu that combines his sophisticated sensibilities with old standbys. Instead of bar nuts, for example, he serves smoked almonds. Nachos have been replaced with house chips served with blue cheese fondue. Even the popcorn has received a kick, compliments of a dash of oregano and a sprinkling of feta cheese. But the menu doesn't stop with such paltry snacks. Bar Symon also offers hearty sandwiches like the pork pastrami sandwich and grilled cheese (made with fontina cheese, shaved onion and oven-dried tomato). Entrées (none of which cost more than $17) include the crispy fried organic chicken, grilled walleye and smoked and braised pork butt, among other artistically plated meals. And while each of these offerings would top the menus of most other dining establishments, the real showstopper here is the aptly named Bar Symon burger—a moist, slightly sweet beef patty topped with fried egg and melted cheddar and served with a side of light, crispy fries.

Libations: Compared to Symon’s other restaurants, his bar serves a relatively modest wine list. Don’t expect to find more than 25 labels on any given night. But then, once you see the place’s beer selection, wine is the last thing you’d want to order. Bar Symon features 40 craft brews on tap, with an equally impressive bottled selection totaling more than 100 selections from which to choose. Just don’t try ordering a Bud Light or MGD. Chef Symon only serves the best of the best, including some of the most obscure microbrews around. Oh, and the perfectly shaken martinis aren’t half bad either.

Décor: Unlike the whimsical décor of Lolita or the more elegant ambiance of Lola, Bar Symon draws from a much more minimalist design aesthetic. The entire left wall is nothing more than light, beige-colored brick, save for a few large windows. The floor is a treated concrete, and the high, industrial style ceilings give the place an urban, loft-style feel. However, this is by no means a blank slate. Bar Symon is accented with some bold elements—a cow-pelt rug, for instance—that give it a slightly swanky feel. The result is a place that’s at once simple and edgy, cool and casual.

The crowd: From the time the bar opens at 4 p.m., Bar Symon is packed with white-collar workers looking to unwind—or do more business—after their evening commute. This is definitely a crowd with some style and affluence. You’d feel out of place wearing jeans and a plain tee. But that’s not to say the patrons are unfriendly. Walking into Bar Symon, you can’t help but feel everyone’s genuinely thrilled to be part of such a great drinking and dining experience.

The service: Like the food, the service at Bar Symon is top notch. Waiters are incredibly cordial and attentive, but you’d never call them stuffy. The same goes for the bartenders, who are just as at ease muddling a refreshing mojito as they are chatting about the sorry state of the Tribe. Simply put, they’re people you don’t mind sharing a drink—or an entire meal—with.

Insider's tip: Bar Symon might stand out as a culinary hot spot, but that doesn’t mean the place stands out when you’re driving down Walker Road trying to find it. It’s tucked back within Avon Lake Towne Center, behind Walgreens, Donatos and Buffalo Wild Wings.

Bottom line: Bar Symon is exactly what you’d expect from a bar owned by Michael Symon. The food’s exquisite, the beer selection is out of this world, and the service is top-rate. Whether you’ve been to Lola and Lolita or not, Bar Symon should be one of the first stops in your culinary circuit.

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